Cut From A Different Cloth: Njema Helena

Take a second to think about the people who create your clothing, most whom may be across the world from you. You have the best looks lining your closet, how many times have you stopped to think about the very hands that took time to sew your garments together? How were they paid for their services, what types of living conditions are they exposed to? While not always the most fun to talk about, this is  a  real and important issue.

 That’s why I love and respect brands like Njema Helena and their global mission to help stimulate the African business community as well as bring high quality pieces to fashionable individuals like you and me. Annika Ostman shared the brands insightful and inspiring story with me, I couldn’t wait to share. 

HH: Why are fair trade practices important in Africa and the global fashion industry?
AO: We all deserve for our work and goods to be valued properly, no matter where we live. Fair trade practices ensure this can become a reality, by not only encouraging the producer but also the consumer to do the right thing.

The fashion industry in particular has an important role to play here as it is one of the biggest industries in the world with far reaching influence. It is also an industry that has often exploited workers in developing countries in order to satisfy the West’s insatiable appetite for inexpensive clothes. This needs to change.

HH: What is the ‘invest in Africa’ principle? Why is it important to Njema Helena?
AO: The ‘invest in Africa’ principle promotes the idea that Africa doesn’t need aid or charity; it needs investment and a belief in the continent’s potential. At Njema Helena we strive to invest in the people of Kenya as well as it’s economy, focusing on creating jobs, providing training, and contributing to the local business community. 

 
HH: How does the design process of the brand work? How long does it take to make the garments?
AO: All our clothes are designed by our Design Director, Cecilia Ostman. She draws inspiration from the Kenyan landscape as well as people, and relies on her years of training and professional work experience in fashion design in New York to create her designs.

Once her design is complete a trial pattern and garment is made and the garment is fitted on a model for tweaks. Then when the garment has been approved our seamstresses will proceed to make the garment in all the varying sizes and fabrics, sewing each piece individually on machine and by hand. It takes about half a day to produce each garment.

HH: Would you say Nairobi’s environment has influence over your brand aesthetic?
AO: We are continually inspired by the nature and people of Nairobi. With its varying scenery that mixes modern with traditional, nature with concrete, rich with poor, wild with tame and happiness with misery there are endless places to draw inspiration from.

But more specifically the art, craft and fashion of East Africa offers an unlimited source of inspiration, particularly the art of Kenya. The use of shape and color is timeless in the sense that it is both primitive and modern, indigenous and futuristic. There are bright colors mixed boldly, as well as earthy neutrals subtly mixed with black. The shapes are strong, geometric; simplistic yet sophisticated. We are continually inspired by this art and strive to adapt the Kenyan aesthetic to a modern life style. 

HH: Tell us about Project Helena.
AO: Project Helena is the charity arm of Njema Helena, which works to bring new skills and employment opportunities to some of Kenya’s poorest women. By training impoverished women to produce quality fashion items that provide a link between African and Western design, it offers them an opportunity to learn advanced skills and find economic independence.

So far the project has employed four HIV-positive single mothers in Kibera, the main slum of Nairobi. Elizabeth, Benter, Amina, and Jimia have all received training and now cut and sew dresses in local fabrics in their workshop in Kibera, finally earning enough to support their families. Profits from the sale of their dresses are reinvested in the project to allow for training of more women and the expansion of their workshop

HH: How will you continue to grow your brand over the next few years?
AO: We hope to expand our brand and move further into the accessories field. We currently design and produce a number of leather belts and have an exciting project in the works to produce brass jewelry. We are also looking to make bags and perhaps expand our clothing range to include children’s wear. 

HH: Any upcoming events or projects to look out for?
AO: We have our official launch for Njema Helena in Nairobi on October 13th, 2012. It will be a day of fashion, drinks and shopping and all are welcome. Please go to our website for RSVP information and details.

We are also aiming to have the online shop for our brand up and running in the new-year; first for the European market and then for our friends in the US.

HH: Social networking channels?
AO: We are on Twitter (@njemahelena), as well as on Facebook, Pinterst and Vimeo. We would love to connect with you there!